Showing posts with label New Orleans. Show all posts
Showing posts with label New Orleans. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 7, 2008

Week 10 of 29: The Pilgrimage ... and Goin' Back to Cali

Monday, April 14
I go to a bookstore where some of Alex’s things are stored to look up the phone number of her landlord in Gulfport. I write it down, and then go to deliver her completed application to the mailbox of the shotgun apartment she wants to rent Uptown on Lowerline. Then I spend some time in Audubon Park … what a lovely, lovely place. I got a little anxious when I saw all those cranes swooping around the lagoon by the golf course. I could see the inspiration for Hitchcock’s The Birds. We leave there and take the ferry over to Algiers for dinner – a big plate of fried shrimp and catfish for me, and that plus fried oysters for Alex. On the ferry back, Alex strikes up a conversation with a man who studied with the singer Rhiannon of the group SoVoSo. I heard them once and bought their cd, back in the Bay Area. Small, small world.



Tuesday, April 15
A day of last things, and starting to make the transition. I get caught up on all of Oprah and Eckhart’s A New Earth “webinars” except for one. I stick pretty close to home. I finish off the last of the andouille sausage for dinner.

Wednesday, April 16
I spend the day getting the house in order, making sure everything is spic-and-span for the return of the resident of the unit where Alex and I have been staying. She let me know a day or two before that the large desktop computer I brought down for her wasn’t going to work for her purposes, so I offered it to the man at the dry cleaners across the street. He gratefully accepted it and said he would give it to his teenage son. That freed up a lot of space in the trunk. I load up the car, and go to pick up Alex. We go by her new hosts, where she will be staying. They offer dinner of a spicy chicken stew for later, and we accept. But first we go to where I will be staying, in Metairie. We drop off my bags, and head back to Alex's new hosts, stopping off at Whole Foods to buy wine. It’s a delicious meal, made by a young couple that likes to cook together. I can taste the love in what they’ve made. We are getting to know each other, as we move in and out of watching the Obama/Clinton debate on ABC. I get back to Metairie, and my host has made prepared fresh Louisiana strawberries for me and Alex.


Thursday, April 17
My wonderful host, a member of Community Church of New Orleans, makes me breakfast. She hosted six other church members back when their homes were flooded during Katrina (she herself only got wind damage), and has very colorful and varied works of art throughout the house. She looks beautiful in purple as she gets ready to go to her bridge meeting. She takes me to the fabulous Jefferson Parish Public Library, where she is returning dvds and videos. Then she takes me by the church, and I have a chance to see the progress that has been made since Alex brought me there back in the spring of 2006. I spend some time talking to the church member there who has volunteered to be the office person that day. I leave and get lost on the way back to the house. I try to wait for my host to get back from bridge, but I need to leave by 3:00 to pick Alex up from her appointment. As it turned out, the she heard back from the rental agent for the unit on Lowerline, she got it! We scramble to get the deposit together and make it over to the unit, only to find out that there was confusion about what the deposit would be. It ended up not working out. We got water from Walgreens and hit the road. We went across Lake Ponchartrain to Slidell, and waited for probably 45 minutes to get two subs made. The guy behind the counter at Subway said they had run out of everything – national television ads are promoting a special deal that everyone is coming in for, but they have no more supplies to work with than in ordinary weeks. Finally got back on the road, only to realize that we were going the long way. Instead of across the Lake and over to I-55 straight up toward Memphis, we were going east, through Gulfport and Hattiesburg. The plan was that we would get there by 10:00 or 11:00, but we didn’t arrive until almost 1:00 a.m. It was an uneventful drive on sparsely-traveled highways and roads, so I was glad for that.

Friday, April 18
I get up and make breakfast for the my mom, Alex and me. It’s raining like crazy, but still we brave the weather and go to the Pilgrimage, Holly Springs’ annual tribute to the glory days of its distant antebellum past. This year was the 70th anniversary – if I’m not mistaken, this has been going on since the release of Gone with the Wind in 1938. When I was growing up, we never even thought about going, as black people – it was that charged just after integration back in the 60s and 70s. Now, with my dad having been the first black mayor for 12 years, and his being part of the welcome to the "pilgrims" coming to see the fabulous mansions, houses, estates and young and old white citizens in period costumes (of the ruling class, of course, not the enslaved), I felt like it was my birthright all the more. It was a good day. I’m glad that out of that troubled era in the history of the town, the state, the region and the nation, that the beauty of the homes is something that can be celebrated, not unlike the pyramids, the castles, and other remnants of past "civilizations" in other parts of the world.

We had lunch at Phillips Grocery, over by the old railroad tracks. They’ve been there since 1948 -- the building was a saloon way back before that, in the old, old days. Phillips is listed as one of the 100 best hamburger joints in the nation, and deservedly so. I tend to go for broke and order the Phil-Up Cheeseburger, a well-seasoned hamburger with cheese, bacon and ham. Total carnivore yum. And the down-home ambiance and everything-and-the-kitchen-sink décor are the real thing – what chains like TGI Friday’s and Appleby’s try to imitate starting from opening day.

In the evening, we go to a free concert at the Chapel of Rust College. This is the Rust College Acappella Choir, that my mother toured with back in the mid-50s. Like other historically black colleges, Rust sometimes depended on income generated by those tours to stay financially viable as a school. It was so moving for me. I can remember being a little child and listening to the choir on albums, and later in person, when I was in middle, jr. high and high school. The singers were so much older than me then. And now, I see these young people, who again, are old enough to be mine. And then I realize, Wait. They are mine. And I am delighted that they are still singing those songs, some that I sang in high school and many that I remember vividly – “I Here a Voice a’Prayin’”, “Didn’t My Lord Deliver Daniel,” and the Rust College alma mater, “College Mine.” Many of my mother’s peers were there as well, the adults who grew me up, now in their sixties and seventies. And yet the song continues … Hallelujah.
I stay up almost all night packing and getting organized for being gone the next four weeks.



Saturday, April 19
I’m at the airport by 5:00 a.m., and on my flight to Denver by 6:15. Alex drops me off and heads back down to Gulfport. I sleep all the way to Denver, and virtually all the way from Denver to LAX. My friend Victor is there to pick me up right at baggage claim. We get. He takes me by his house, and I drop my bags. His partner Wayne joins us, and we hit the ground running. They take me to the Cara Walker exhibit at the Hammer Museum, and then we go over In-and-Out Burger for lunch. Next, we are at the Fowler Museum at UCLA for the exhibits Mami Wata, Make Art/Stop AIDS, and one other. Back at the house, Victor, who’s got roots in Louisiana, made a delicious shrimp etouffe for dinner. I get a good night’s rest.

Sunday, April 20
Wayne makes breakfast. Victor and Wayne drop me off at Culver City at the Agape Spiritual Center, where Rev. Michael Beckwith is the pastor. He’s not there because the Annual Revelation conference is happening elsewhere in town. But the guest speaker, Ishmael Tetteh, is dynamic, funny and very engaging. I look around at the rainbow of cultures and colors in the crowd, feel the love in the room and hear music and a message that resonate with me and think, “What a great place. I can see why people love it here.” When they pick me up, we go over to the Getty Museum, a place I’ve been meaning to go when I’ve been in LA but not made it, until today. It’s fantastic, both as a work of architecture and as a repository of extraordinary art. In the evening, we go to the theater district and catch Great Expectations: The Musical at a black box theatre. I’ve not read the book yet, but now I’m going to. I have to say I related to the young man who sought to see the world, and later came to question why he had traveled so far when all he needed had been right where he started … at the same time, as the old saying goes, “I wouldn’t take nothin’ for my journey now.”


Monday, May 5, 2008

Week 9 of 29: Driving to Atlantis

Monday, April 7
I got up and drove from Oxford over to Batesville, and then straight down I-55 to New Orleans. It was a great sunny day to drive. I was surprised, in a conversation I had on the phone with someone I met at the King observance, and just listening to talk radio, to have just a sense of how deep and strong the roots of hostility toward people who outside the presumed norm are, whether that is based on weight, sexual/affectional orientation, or other factors. Sometimes here, I find it hard to be with the ways that Christianity and the Bible are invoked to justify that hostility. It’s true that living in the places that I’ve lived, especially New York, the Bay Area and Boston – and often in Unitarian Universalist settings – I’m not often confronted head-on with such bitterness in the name of religion.

Coming across the elevated highways, I do have a sense of driving
to Atlantis, there’s so much water, and it seems so high. Touching down in New Orleans, I am feeling relaxed already. There’s so much I love about being here, and at least for this next week, I’m in a sweet apartment inside a castle in the French Quarter that has a swimming pool in the courtyard (but it was too cold to swim). We walked to a nice restaurant on Toulouse for dinner. I had crawfish etouffe … very tasty.

Tuesday, April 8
I drove Alex to work, and I got caught up on my blog.
[… and then I fell behind again. Now I’m at 33,000 feet over the Pacific Ocean for the next five hours … what a great time to catch up on my blog! As long as my battery lasts …]

Wednesday, April 9
Spent a good part of the morning straightening up the house, which was already in very good shape. In the evening, I spent some time exploring the Quarter.

Thursday, April 10
A very, very warm day. Didn’t venture out of the house much but when I did, I felt completely drenched. I met one of the organizers of the French Quarter festival events who was up from Florida. The energy of the city was beginning to buzz more, with people beginning to arrive for the weekend.

Friday, April 11
Another scorcher. I walked from the Castle through the Quarter, down to the Mississippi. I sat on its banks and listed to the great music of the French Quarter Festival playing down by the waterfront hotels in the distance. It was perfect there, as the sun was setting, and people were walking along the levee to be closer. After the sun went down, I walked back through the Quarter, down Bourbon Street. Some vignettes:



Vignette #1
Me, to a woman holding a coffee cup with a black lid on top: Where did you get your coffee?

Woman: This ain’ coffee, baby … (laughs) If you want coffee, you can go to one of the nice restaurants down the street and they’ll give you some coffee!

I get to the Krystal’s down on Bourbon near Canal. I’m waiting in line to order a hot chocolate and thinking, It’s 80 degrees out there. What am I going to do with hot chocolate? I go back to a cocktail stand and order a peach daiquiri instead.

Vignette #2
A woman in a strapless top is holding beads three stories above me. "Hey, you!" She hollers down. She gestures like she’s going to pull her top up. I shake my head, hold my hands in prayer pose and bow slightly. "Oh, come on!" she says. I keep walking. It is only later when I see a man flash his chest to a woman for beads that I realize what the woman who hollered to me wanted me to do.

Vignette #3
A string of four boys, the oldest not more than 15, is tap-dancing on the street. Each has a box in front of them. Patron of the arts I am, I put a $10 bill in the box of the boy that is nearest to me. As I am walking past the other boys, one of them says to me, “You not gonna give the rest of us any?”
“I thought you were all working together.”
“What did you give him, a five?
“Unh-uhn.”
I keep walking and sipping on my daquiri, but look back long enough to see him and the other boys gathering around the box where I had left my contribution.

Saturday, April 12
I hang out with Alex and her friends who are in town from Gulfport, to celebrate the birthday of one of them. Alex’s friends will go to The Vagina Monologues (Oprah is scheduled to appear!) later in the evening. Alex and I go looking for an apartment where she will stay once the beginning of May rolls around.

Sunday, April 13
Breakfast at the corner diner at Burgundy and Esplanade, a block from where we are staying. There’s a woman there that we I saw the night before as the door to our unit was open onto the courtyard swimming pool. We find out her boyfriend lives in the same building. She’s a self-described Creole Unitarian Universalist attorney, and we talk about what’s working and not working in New Orleans, UUism in the Crescent City, after we’ve finished our breakfast. Most interesting … and to think I wanted to walk out right after we got there because it was a smoke-filled room.